Watersmeet walk

Watersmeet is the point deep in an Exmoor gorge where the East Lyn River meets Hoaroak Water, roughly two miles upstream from Lynmouth. The name describes the rivers joining; there is no single waterfall to find here. What you do find is one of the most atmospheric woodland walks in North Devon, following a fast-running river through steep, heavily wooded valley sides before arriving at an improbable Victorian building tucked into the gorge floor.

National Trust has managed the site since the 1930s. Watersmeet House was built in 1832 as a fishing and hunting lodge for the Halliday family, and it still feels like a discovery when you round the final bend and see it sitting at the confluence. The walk itself is the main reason to come; the tea room is a very welcome bonus.

The path runs through a deeply incised gorge with the East Lyn River audible almost the entire way. Oak and ash woodland covers the steep valley sides, and the river alternates between rushing white water over boulders and quieter pools where the valley briefly widens. The gorge is sheltered from coastal winds, which makes it feel a different world from the exposed headlands further west. On a breezy day at Woolacombe beach, the woodland here can be almost completely still.

The character of the walk changes with the seasons. In spring, bluebells and wood anemones line the path and the river runs high after winter rains. Summer is the busiest period but arriving early in the morning means you may have the gorge largely to yourself. Autumn is arguably the best time: the oak canopy turns amber and gold, the light through the trees in the gorge is extraordinary, and the tea room is usually still open into October. In winter the tea room closes but the walk itself remains accessible and is often very quiet.

After heavy rain the path can be muddy and the river rises noticeably. The route stays well clear of flood level but some sections become slippery. Waterproof boots rather than trail shoes are worth it in autumn and winter.

People sometimes arrive expecting one large, photogenic waterfall. There is not one. What you get instead is a gorge where the river tumbles and pools continuously along its entire length. Boulders, exposed tree roots and sudden drops in the riverbed create dozens of small falls and churning pools throughout the walk. The effect is more impressive than a single feature would be, because the river is constantly doing something interesting.

The confluence at Watersmeet itself is the most dramatic point, where two fast rivers join in a narrow, rock-lined channel. After heavy rain in particular the noise and force of the water here is striking. For anyone interested in North Devon waterfalls, Watersmeet is the most accessible example of gorge-scale water in the area, even if it does not have a single named fall.

• Park at Lynmouth Seafront car park or Lynbridge car park in the village. There is no parking at Watersmeet itself.
• Walking boots are strongly recommended. The path is uneven and becomes muddy through autumn and winter.
• Mobile signal is patchy or absent in the gorge. Download an OS map before leaving Lynmouth.
• Dogs are welcome on leads throughout the National Trust-managed sections of the route.
• Carry water, particularly in summer. The only refreshment stop is Watersmeet House; back in Lynmouth there are cafes and pubs.
• The NT tea room takes card and cash. The walk itself is free to access.
• Check the National Trust website for current tea room opening dates when visiting in spring or autumn.

The best time to visit North Devon guide covers seasonal conditions across the area if you are planning your trip around the weather.